Throughout Eaux Claires Troix, multiple performers called the festival a “musical experiment.” Others touted it as a way to celebrate friendship, while yet others talked about the festival’s golden reputation. And, as Eaux Claires’ co-founder and Eau Claire native, no one stood taller across the weekend than Justin Vernon. Looking around the campground, it was impossible to go a few seconds without spotting someone either wearing something Bon Iver-related or tattooed with iconography. For that reason, it seemed obvious that the band’s set would be the most anticipated of the weekend. But in true Eaux Claires fashion, the set was labeled “Bon Iver Presents John Prine & The American Songbook,” Vernon and a constantly rotating all-star troupe performing sweet, soaring, respectful covers of the legend’s material. Sam Amidon’s impeccable banjo playing was only outdone by his shouted harmonica impression, having left the actual thing backstage. The trio of Mountain Man vocalists’ rolling harmonies on “That’s the Way the World Goes Round” proved to be a highlight, as did Jenny Lewis’s take on “Christmas in Heaven”. The set featured everyone from The National’s Aaron Dessner to rapper Spank Rock, all smooshed into the Prine mold. After an hour or so of amiable collaboration and beautiful songs, Vernon welcomed his hero to the stage — and then the thunder, lightning, and rain came hard, Prine himself performing only a couple of songs.
The set proved emblematic of the entire festival: full of friendship, family, passionate performance, and surprises, beauty that not even storms could completely drown out, no matter how torrential. That collaborative spirit certainly made the already small festival feel that much more tight knit, the campgrounds full of new friends and shared meals. The woods surrounding the festival were also littered with fascinating art experiences, lending an even more magical feeling to the proceedings. There was a drum kit composed of glass jars, pieces of rain gutter, and other assorted odds and ends, played by water droplets launched by a tablet computer sequencer. There was a terrarium of crickets with a microphone pointed into it, the surrounding speakers playing back the insects’ soothing calls. There were also roving groups of artists tying everything together, from the traditional dancing and percussion of Native American performers Midnite Express to the incredibly less traditional group of artists who donned pinkish sleeping bags and wriggled around, calling themselves Worms.
Now three years into its existence, Eaux Claires has established itself as a leader through creating an incredible, fulfilling artistic experience for the performers, which of course naturally leads to an equally powerful experience for attendees. The mix of big-name headliners (Paul Simon, Chance the Rapper, Wilco), unique collaborations (the Vernon-Aaron Dessner project Big Red Machine, and the many Wilco offshoots), and local heroes (Collections of Colonies of Bees, S. Carey, and, of course, Vernon himself) made for a small but very cohesive experience. At just two days, Eaux Claires packs a whole lot into its brief moment, and leaves attendees wanting more. And with the glut of festivals stretching longer and longer, that’s quite the compliment. That said, it was still a real challenge to pick out the best highlights, but here are the top 10.
–Lior Phillips and Adam Kivel
Click through to read about our Top 10 sets of the weekend and check out our exclusive photo gallery.
10. Big Red Machine
Collaboration and surprises were the name of the game at Eaux Claires, and one of the showstoppers in both regards was Big Red Machine. The collaboration between Aaron Dessner and the festival honcho himself, Justin Vernon, jammed out during one of Eaux Claires’ People Mixtape sets, and performed new songs on a pre-announced set on day two. “This is stuff that we’re working on,” Vernon offered, putting their craftwork on intimate, straightforward display. At one highlight, Dessner and Vernon’s guitars intersected like two butterflies flitting around each other in intricate circles, while the Bon Iver frontman pushed his voice through a screen of glitchy modulation. While Vernon made appearances at many other sets, this was the one where he felt immediately there. His own set celebrating John Prine and the American Songbook worked like a mixtape, he added vocals harmonies during Tweedy, tried on his old rock getup for The Shouting Matches, and he danced for Chance, but Big Red Machine captured the present and offered a glimpse of what may come in the future. –Adam Kivel
09. Francis and the Lights
Say what you will about Francis Starlite, but the dude knows how to put on a show. The Francis and the Lights mastermind set up shop on the Creek stage with production duo Inc. No World, and owned every inch of the wooden platform. The stage was buttressed by two ramps leading to crow’s nest platforms, and if anyone was going to make use of the unique space, it was going to be Francis. Like a fusion of a reincarnated Prince and a hyperactive kid given the mic at his bar mitzvah and not letting go for dear life, he jittered his way around the stage. His limbs swung like a marionette under the guidance of a master puppeteer dealing with kinked strings: lots of unexpected twitches and hitches, but they somehow all came together. When he did sit down at the keys, Starlite used those same jumpy mechanics vocally, hitting unexpected places and making them work. Songs like “See Her Out” and “Friends” had their own unexpected quirks, but the most unexpected of all was his full rendition of “The Star-Spangled Banner”. Maybe he saw a scout from the Milwaukee Brewers and felt like auditioning for the next homestand. –Adam Kivel
“Eaux Claires, your reputation has preceded you,” Leslie Feist smiled, after performing a smoky rendition of the title track from her latest. That was a straightforward enough start for a musician touring on the back of a new record, but what followed was anything but. “We want to do something special for you and these incredible clouds,” she smiled, leading her band into a front-to-back performance of Pleasure, as smoldering and grand as the recording. The peak of the set was the ecstatic “Any Party”, the intimacy of the song somehow palpable even across the vast, damp field. Meanwhile, the limber “Baby Be Simple” led to quite a bit of swaying. The Eaux Claires crowd clearly enjoyed the new album, showing ample appreciation, but nothing, of course, could earn the level of love of classics “My Moon My Man” and “I Feel It All” at the end of the set. “I do, I feel it all,” she beamed. Feist seemed truly refreshed, and the feeling was contagious. –Lior Phillips
07. Julieta Venegas
Singer-songwriter Julieta Venegas and her band made their way up to Eau Claires from Mexico, but unfortunately, their instruments didn’t. “We got stopped in customs,” she began, which was quickly and swiftly met by a powerful chorus of boos. Though they certainly were given a tough task, Venegas and her compatriots certainly faced down the challenge. Even playing an unfamiliar accordion much larger than her own, Venegas’ passionate, inventive songwriting and intense stagecraft didn’t show an ounce of unease. Highlight “Limon y Sal” (the title track of her 2006 studio album) twirled and soared in the midday sun, the small outfit managing a whole lot of beauty. In a festival somewhat lacking in diversity, it was refreshing to hear Venegas’ Spanish-sung songs. Though now seven albums into a powerful career, Venegas has yet to receive the attention in the US that this set proved she deserves and can receive. –Adam Kivel
06. Jenny Lewis and Guests
Before the second day of Eaux Claires, there was a slot set aside on day two at the tiny Sparreaux stage for Trevor Hagen Mixtape Vol. 1. The longtime friend and former bandmate of Justin Vernon’s may not exactly be a household name, but considering the collaborative nature of the title and fest, it seemed worth checking out. Consulting the festival app Saturday morning, though, it was as if a section of my phone screen had turned into a giant, flashing neon light: “Jenny Lewis with Guests.” The change appeared to be so impromptu that not everyone on the festival staff knew it was even happening. I high-tailed it to the shaded stage, but it seemed I wasn’t alone in excitement — the crowd rivaled that of the main stages. As Lewis began her set, I was lured further and further by her euphoric voice, snaking through the pack. Before I knew it, I was inches from Lewis’ face as she serenaded a pregnant woman at the front of the crowd. Only at Eaux Claires would a singer of Lewis’ stature find herself at a stage as intimate and small as Sparreaux, and she made the most of it. New songs about being a party clown and wasted youth were absolutely beguiling. When Lewis made a one-song appearance at the Bon Iver set, it seemed like she’d be sure to pop up again, but a full set like this felt like an unexpected blessing. –Lior Phillips
05. Wilco and Family
Wilco closed out the festival with a triumphant set on the second night of Eaux Claires, but their myriad collaborations and side projects spread out across the festival challenged to top their main set. Mikael Jorgensen’s late-night electronic mysteries with Quindar sat at one end of the spectrum, the synth player’s head peaking out from the top of an LED cube, weaving together samples from NASA. Guitarist Nels Cline and wife Yuka Honda performed with Cup, while drummer Glenn Kotche collaborated in a duo with Bon Iver percussionist S. Carey. Frontman Jeff Tweedy led his side project with his son, Spencer, both clearly having a ball; appearances from guests like Justin Vernon and Anais Mitchell rounded out the performance, songs like “Hazel”, Woody Guthrie-penned “California Stars”, and Pop Staples’ “Friendship” crackled like vinyl. But in the end, no amount of impressive side projects, heavy rain, or following Paul Simon could detract from a set this big. They leaned into the stormy weather with expressive, noisy outbreaks, pushing hard against the already hazy structures of songs like “Ashes of American Flags”, “I Am Trying to Break Your Heart”, and “Via Chicago”. Wilco truly fulfilled the promise of Eaux Claires, hitting the notes to fulfill every fan’s dreams, but also pushing their own creative borders and spreading their family relationships out for the world to see. –Adam Kivel
04. Paul Simon with yMusic
After the unexpected announcement about set cancellations and time changes and a half-hour rain delay past that updated set time, the crowd’s fervor for Paul Simon could not be deterred. “It’s always a good omen when the crowd is wet and shivering but the performers are dry,” the legend offered. That good omen was clearly felt on the other side of the stage, the love shown from decades of fandom and the kids who were raised by those fans, listening to Simon’s music. After one particularly zealous fan shouted an “I love you,” though, he followed up with an equally dry (if you’ll forgive the pun) response: “I love me too… about one third of the time.”
His songs, fortunately, had a much higher success rate, thanks in good part to the nimble, versatile backing of experimental orchestra yMusic and the contributing composers. Trumpeter CJ Camerieri’s take on “The Boxer” and violinist Rob Moose’s arrangement of “The Sound of Silence” proved the seemingly endless capacity of the small musical outfit, leaving just the right amount of space for Simon without leaving him out on a ledge. The totality of their versatile skill set, though, was on full display in “Peace Like a River”, arranged by Ryan Lott of Son Lux. And speaking of peace, Simon left the crowd with a rare bit of advice: “Anger is addictive. Be aware of anger coming from any direction … The solutions to problems come from a calm mind. Remember, practice kindness.” –Lior Phillips
03. Sylvan Esso
Sylvan Esso had a tough act to follow: the crew members squeegeeing the puddles from the front of the stage they’d be gracing. Sure, other acts may have gotten larger applause, but the fervent fans of the squeegee team chanted and cheered at every splash of water pushed off the stage. But then the duo of Amelia Meath and Nick Sanborn took the stage, and any memory of any act thus far were gone, as if they were pushed away by so many majestic squeegees. Sylvan Esso are magnetic performers, the kind of artists that would be compelling no matter what songs they wrote. Sanborn tweaks his electronics with rubbery arms, as if he could control the sound across the entire field with his body alone. Meath, meanwhile, high-kicks her way into more hearts with every set, and her fluid vocals push that infatuation further. Closing out with the bewitching grooves of “Hey Mami” and “Radio” made all the rain a distant memory — with all the frenetic dancing, the damp clothes might as well have been from all the sweat. –Lior Phillips
02. Chance the Rapper
As much as any other performance at the festival, Chance the Rapper’s Eaux Claires set was all about love and friendship. At one particularly touching moment, he expressed his appreciation for bandmate Nico Segal: “A bug tried to bite him earlier, but I killed it because he’s my dog,” Chance beamed. And for a Chicago kid braving the mosquitoes of Wisconsin, that’s no small thing. (I’m still scratching.) The Social Experiment dug through a set of songs ranging from Coloring Book jams to the brand-new DJ Khaled smash “I’m the One” to Surf highlights, all fueled by the band members’ fluid interplay. That extended to friends Francis Starlite and Justin Vernon as well, the trio performing “Friends” complete with intricate choreography. There were party jams like “All Night”, “Juke Jam”, and “Mixtape”, but the spiritual and familial songs hit the hardest. “Blessings” spread through the crowd like wildfire, and “Cocoa Butter Kisses” and “Sunday Candy” inspired many warm fuzzies and sing-alongs as well. “Are there really this many Chance the Rapper fans in the Wisconsin area?” Chance beamed. Judging by the ecstatic grins at Eaux Claires, there may be even more than when the day started. –Adam Kivel
01. Perfume Genius
Though the rest of the festival was fueled by collaboration, Perfume Genius rose to the top because of Mike Hadreas’ absolutely singular performance. After years of producing experimental pop fueled by pain and struggle, Hadreas’ recently released and sublime No Shape shows off his newfound love, happiness, and recovery. His performance at Eaux Claires pushed that even further, as he proved he’s clearly more confident and comfortable as a performer, inspired by his songs and their effect on others. Donning a pinstriped jumpsuit, heels, and a flowing white shirt, Hadreas looked in the vein of Grace Jones or David Bowie, and his powerful ownership of the stage showed a similar confidence.
As the concussive blasts of opener “Otherside” ripped through the field, he stood at the lip of the stage, bending and flexing with a ferocious intensity, mouthing something as he held the mic outstretched at arm’s length — confident enough to be speaking to himself, and magnetic enough to make everyone there wish they knew what he was saying. The crowd started small, but grew quickly, perhaps most rapidly when he began playing “a few quieter songs,” including “Normal Song” and “Hood”. And once they all were leaning in, Hadreas blew the crowd away with the extreme power of “Slip Away” and “Queen”.
At one point, Hadreas got so confident in his sensual swaggering that he tore off his shirt, passing it to partner Alan Wyffels with a sly smile. “We’re having fun now, before, and I’m assuming after,” Hadreas said. “That’s my journey, and I hope it’s your journey too.” With an inspiring, inspired performance like this, there were many journeys lifted up with no downside in sight. –Lior Phillips
Click ahead for an exclusive gallery from Eaux Claires 2017.